New fashion using ancient craftsmanship hits runways

Jacquard fabrics with traditional Chinese cultural elements and ancient Li brocade crafts caught the eye of global designers at the recently concluded Premiere Vision Paris show.

Joining hands with Shanghai Skytex Fashion Technology Co Ltd, a design innovation team from the College of Textiles at Donghua University, brought new vitality to the ancient craft through a series of jacquard fabrics and handbags at the notable biannual show on Feb 12.

Boasting a history of over 3,000 years, the brocade is a traditional craft of the Li ethnic group in Hainan province, and is listed as a national intangible cultural heritage.

The jacquard Li brocade fabrics displayed at the show were described as artworks with Chinese charm. Their exquisite patterns were inspired by the ethnic group's traditional gourd totem, precisely layered snake scale textures to mark the Year of the Snake, and vibrant colors representing rainforests and good fortune.

Showcasing a balanced blend of traditional Chinese culture and modern aesthetics and techniques, the fabrics captivated attendees and explored new possibilities for this ancient craft.

"These are not only fabrics but also the contemporary cultural expression of millennial Li brocade. Integrating with traditional Chinese culture and modern textile technology, we hope to bring this ancient intangible cultural heritage to the global stage," says Xue Wenliang, leader of the team and a professor at the College of Textiles at Donghua University in Shanghai.

The collaboration between the team and Skytex dates back to July 2022. Last summer, tracking the path of Huang Daopo, a textile pioneer in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) born in today's Shanghai, the team journeyed to Hainan province. Immersing themselves in Li ethnic communities, they learned the culture and techniques behind the traditional craft.

Xue says that compared with other renowned ancient Chinese brocades that use silk as the main material, such as the Yunjin and Songjin brocades from Jiangsu province, Li brocade is less known and is made of cotton, which China farmed on a large scale until the late Tang Dynasty (618-907). However, the jacquard fabrics at the Paris show were created with the high-end market in mind.

"Compared with other fabric processing techniques, such as printed fabrics, jacquard fabrics take more time and work. In particular, the making of Li brocade involves handmaking in its processing, such as spinning, dyeing, weaving, and embroidering, making the fabric a luxurious and artistic product," says Xue.

He adds that integrating handmade craftsmanship, traditional culture and modern technology is a big challenge in passing on such intangible cultural heritage, calling on more students, companies and organizations to take part in the process.

Chai Fangjun, chairman of Skytex, values the collaboration with the team, saying: "The living heritage of Li brocade must speak to the world. With 3D jacquard techniques, we are showcasing new Chinese fashion that has evolved using ancient craftsmanship, in Paris.

"This series not only pays tribute to Li culture but also demonstrates our forward-looking and inclusive attitude to global cultural exchanges and fashion innovation."

wangxin2@chinadaily.com.cn