A MENU FOR CHANGE

Restaurant owner was among those villagers who helped usher in a new age

When driving into Xiaogang, a first-time visitor could easily miss a restaurant near the entrance of the village in Fengyang county, Chuzhou, Anhui province.

Its owner Yan Jinchang is a fit, healthy and sprightly 77-year-old. Years in farming fields helped build his strong body. Some customers may visit just for the food but others want a taste of history.

"As long as they're willing to listen, I am always happy to tell when I'm not that busy preparing the food," Yan says, cheerfully.