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China Daily / 2020-10 / 07 / Page007

FABRIC CULTURE INNOVATION

By LU XU | China Daily | Updated: 2020-10-07 00:00
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Literally meaning "the fabric of summer", xiabu is a traditional Chinese handwoven fabric with a history dating back to the Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD). People wore clothes made of xiabu to be cool and comfortable, especially during the ancient Shu Kingdom period (221-263) where it was worn by people in Sichuan province and Chongqing municipality to beat the sweltering heat.

The fabric is made from ramie, a type of vegetable fiber known as Chinese grass. In the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), it was a highly prized commodity and was exported to Japan, Korea and some Southeast Asian countries. In the 1980s and 1990s, more than 100,000 bolts of xiabu cloth were sold overseas every year. Then in 2008, the xiabu weaving technique of Chongqing's Rongchang district was added to the national intangible cultural heritage list.

However, production of the cloth has declined due to its complex manufacturing processes and other difficulties. To promote the intangible cultural heritage, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology opened a xiabu technique training center in Rongchang in 2018. The center has since organized more than 60 training sessions, benefiting more than 5,000 locals engaged in xiabu production.

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