Flourish of ethnic flair

Ideas from China's many traditional communities appeal to modern designers, Hou Chenchen reports.

Thin strips of fabric meticulously sewn in overlapping layers of dazzling colors adorned the intricate collars and sleeves, with shimmering tassels hanging from broad belts.

When the group of young people wearing the eye-catching attire styled in the traditional designs of local communities appeared on the cosmopolitan streets of Shanghai last year, many bystanders said it was as though a rainbow was passing through them.

The group posed for photos against the urban backdrop of shared bicycles, subway stations and roadside billboards, creating a striking contrast between the traditional elements of their clothes and the modern cityscape.

The unique runway event, organized by Chinese artist Zhao Bing, showcased the traditional clothing of the Lisu people, an ethnic group from Southwest China's Yunnan province, through a "citywalk" that blended culture and contemporary living.

The show itself reflected a rising trend celebrating the traditional allure of ethnic culture in the art world amid increasing digitalization.

Su Xiaoling, a young content creator from Yunnan, has similarly taken ethnic attire onto the international stage.

During the 2024 Paris Olympics, Su wore the clothes of Yi ethnic group members from the Guangxi Zhuang autonomous region of South China and Yunnan, Sichuan and Guizhou provinces of Southwest China while she visited iconic landmarks including the Louvre Museum and the Eiffel Tower, captivating French spectators who eagerly posed for photos with her.

"They were so enthusiastic and warm, far beyond what I expected," Su said. "Sometimes, they'd mistake us for Japanese or Korean people, and I'd always tell them I am Chinese."

Through the efforts of fashion fans like Su, Chinese ethnic costumes are gaining growing recognition across the globe, with more foreigners shedding their stereotypes of a singular "Asian culture" and appreciating the rich diversity of China's ethnic groups.

Su's videos modeling exquisite costumes from various ethnic communities have already earned her over a million followers online.

"Ethnic costumes and haute couture might seem unrelated but to me, these delicate handicrafts are Chinese haute couture," Su said.

"They require immense labor and resources, and they carry deep cultural significance. Wearing them is the best way to preserve them."

Blending in

Beyond the popular hanfu, or traditional Chinese clothing of the Han ethnic group, other ethnic clothes in China are merging with modern fashion, fueled by innovative interpretations from the younger generation.

Members of the Lisu ethnic group are known for their brightly colored and elaborately patterned attire, utilizing the local fireweed plant as one of its raw materials.

Zhao Bing, who grew up in southwestern China, possesses an innate emotional connection to the area's folklore and nature. When Zhao studied art in France, an exhibition about ethnic costumes from various countries inspired her to delve into her hometown's ethnic culture and the rich folk craft of the Lisu quickly captured her interest.

"Although the clothing of the Lisu is also diverse, it is somewhat simpler compared to other ethnic groups. So it's easier to blend with modern art," Zhao said.

After years in the fashion marketing industry, Zhao shifted her focus to establishing her own ethnic art innovation platform, GiftMarket. She launched a comprehensive art project of Lisu culture, encompassing exhibitions, fashion shows, experimental photography and music videos.

One of her primary concerns is to integrate traditional ethnic clothing into contemporary life.

"The elaboration of ethnic costumes may take one to two years, and they are always very expensive due to their purely handmade nature," she said.

"If we can make them more usable and fashionable, they will be better suited for our everyday wear."

Zhao turned to design for the answer. During a fashion show in October 2023, apart from traditional Lisu attire, there were also innovative garments that combined Lisu patterns and designs with punk or denim styles, creating a cross-temporal artistic charm.

"I'm basically translating ethnic culture into something that millennials and subculture enthusiasts find interesting," Zhao said.

"The involvement of design brings a better communication of language that urban young people can relate to."

Mixing and matching can also be a more cost-effective approach, echoing a "light ethnic lifestyle", she said.

On Shanghai's Changle Road last year, Zhao had gathered a group of young people who are passionate about ethnic culture. They put on Lisu shawls, hats, dresses and other related items that matched with modern clothing, presenting various styles.

A young man from Indonesia was part of the group.

"This was my first time as a model. Inspired by the photographer, I even did a little traditional dance from my hometown, Java island," he said in an interview with Fashion Zoo, a local fashion media outlet.

"Indonesia, like China, has many different ethnic groups, and this love for ethnic culture attracted me."

Tapping tradition

The younger generation's embrace and promotion of ethnic costumes goes beyond the appreciation of beauty, with members like Su and Zhao exploring the deeper values of traditional culture.

In the latest fashion show and exhibition organized by Zhao, 16 complete sets of Lisu ethnic costumes were displayed, all handmade by Lisu members from across China. Two young members living in Shanghai also took part as models for the citywalk.

"They have a strong sense of ethnic pride and they were eager to participate," Zhao said. "Even if they had other commitments, they would take a day of just to be part of this."

Similarly, Su's work would not have been possible without the support of local ethnic residents.

"Many custodians of ethnic costumes lent me their cherished garments," she said. "They're eager to showcase these precious pieces and the craftsmanship behind them to a wider audience, especially on short-video platforms."

Su also acts as an ambassador for local cultural tourism. Her stunning photographs featuring beautiful ethnic costumes have become a major draw for tourists, capitalizing on the trend of travel-focused photography.

Zhao continues to explore the intersection of art and development. She recounted a detail of Lisu culture that touched her: the delicate seashell ornaments on the ethnic clothing.

"My hometown also has a lot of such shells," she said. "They symbolize wealth and peace."

The seashells adorned the models on her runway, conveying the aspirations of ethnic communities.

Through her extensive field research, Zhao has also observed the phenomenon of villages in ethnic areas where adults head out for work in the cities, leaving behind the elderly and children.

"If we can make ethnic crafts more practical and marketable, it might encourage young people to return home and continue honing these skills," she said.

"That way, they can keep their traditions alive, spend more time with their families and, even if they don't earn as much as they would in the city, find happiness."

Gao Yuxi and Lu Huimin contributed to this story.

Contact the writer at houchenchen@chinadaily.com.cn