Young talents taking ancient Suzhou embroidery onto global stage

Young inheritors represent the future of intangible cultural heritage. In Suzhou New District, an important hub of Suzhou embroidery, a group of young people is infusing this traditional art with diversity, fashion and technology, bringing this national treasure to the global stage.

Among these young talents is Yu Zhujun. Her creations span various categories, including clothing, food, beauty products, fragrances, automobiles and interior decoration. Besides working with Chinese brands, she also collaborates with international brands such as BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Michelin.

After a period of exploration, Yu chose apparel as her area of specialization and founded the Hiembroid clothing brand. She said she hopes to carry on the legacy of her grandmother and mother, both embroiderers, and bring Suzhou embroidery clothing to the world.

Wu Haoxi, born into a family of embroidery artists, sees promoting Suzhou embroidery internationally as her life's mission.

Years ago, she realized that for the traditional craft to gain international recognition, innovation was key. Traditional Suzhou embroidery, often used in wall hangings, screens and ornaments, was losing its audience as people's tastes evolved. Therefore, creating Suzhou embroidery products that meet contemporary needs is essential for sustainable industrial development.

In 2015, Wu founded Suzhou Yunshang Embroidery, integrating Suzhou embroidery into bookmarks, hair clips, book covers, bags, clothing and more. Wu has also embraced digital innovation, creating Suzhou New District's first virtual reality metaverse exhibition hall for Suzhou embroidery.

Another young Suzhou embroidery inheritor from the district, Zhang Xue, recently completed a project in collaboration with Japanese company Sanrio, creating four embroidery artworks featuring Hello Kitty. These pieces depict the fictional character as a lively girl in various Chinese lifestyle scenes, blending cultural elements from different times and regions.

Zhang, the fourth-generation inheritor of his family's embroidery craft, grew up watching his mother and grandmother's expert needlework.

Zhang said: "Unlike my mother's generation, who devotedly perfected Suzhou embroidery techniques, I aim to challenge traditional perceptions of the craft and push for cross-industry collaborations and diverse interpretations."

Zhang's latest international venture was in April 2024 when he joined a Suzhou delegation of nine intangible heritage inheritors at the 88th International Crafts Fair in Italy to promote Suzhou embroidery. The delicate art of dividing a single silk thread into 32, 64, 128 or even 256 strands by skilled artisans amazed the audience.

Since the 1990s, generations of embroiderers from the district have proactively created new works rather than waiting for orders. Their perseverance has garnered greater recognition for Suzhou embroidery, with more than 100 pieces presented as State gifts to foreign dignitaries and housed in international museums.

Suzhou New District places great emphasis on training young inheritors. The district recently launched a talent cultivation plan for Suzhou embroidery. The first sub-plans introduced are the Embroidering the Future Plan and the Young Embroiderers International Innovation Plan.

The district has developed Suzhou embroidery textbooks, with more than 30 embroidery-themed clubs in primary and secondary schools. Building on this, the Embroidering the Future Plan will offer Suzhou embroidery electives at institutions such as Nanjing University's Suzhou campus.

The Young Embroiderers International Innovation Plan will pair local embroiderers with leading international designers to co-create artworks, which will be showcased at prestigious events such as the Paris Design Week.

On June 16, Zhang Lu, a fifth-generation embroiderer and a member of the post-1995 generation, paired with an Italian designer, marking the sub-plan's inaugural collaboration.

Suzhou New District also offers evening classes for the young, teaching intangible heritage handicrafts, tai chi, Kunqu Opera and other subjects.

As Suzhou New District intensifies efforts to train young inheritors, more young people, particularly those from families of embroiderers, are becoming agents of change for the Suzhou embroidery industry, incorporating creativity and technology to interpret the age-old art form in new ways.